200 winegrowers with vineyards in numerous towns along the Danube in the Wachau region are cultivating an average of one to two hectares of vineyards each, many as part-time businesses, some as part of mixed farming. They are all deeply rooted in the region. Working on the terraces is challenging and laborious, as the majority of the vineyards are not mechanizable. The work is carried out with the utmost craftsmanship, following a rigid quality concept and a finely tuned harvest plan and micro-vinification concept for each individual plot. Harvesting is 100% by hand in multiple harvests, carried out exclusively by family members. By avoiding insecticides and herbicides and promoting biodiversity, an ecological balance is ensured on the Wachau terraces.

This brings us to the first Ried (Austrian for vineyard site) and the first wines of a total of six tasted:

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Kaiserberg 2024

Quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 12.5%: The aroma embodies freshness and vibrancy. Lighthearted and airy with nuances of fresh leaves, delicate citrus and fennel notes, and distinct mineral notes. The palate is carried by a ripe fruit acidity, which wonderfully unifies all the aromas. Minerality also plays a significant role here. But the fruity notes of green apple, grapefruit, and quince also add brightness and enjoyment. Aromas of anise, hay, ginger, and privet dance on the tongue like little staccatos. The whole is enveloped by a delicate smoky note. Plenty of force on the palate. A constant urge forward, thanks to aromas of pepper and nutmeg. Pure drinking pleasure!

'DAC'  stands for "Districtus Austriae Controllatus" and is the legal abbreviation for regionally defined Austrian quality wines with correspondingly higher requirements.

Federspiel is an additional, more stringent quality designation from the regional protection association Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus, of which the Domain Wachau is a member. Corresponding conditions and quality standards apply to its use. Federspiel wines are exclusively dry, with grape quality in the Kabinett range, and are characterized by a fruity and charming character. Enhancement with sugar (chaptalization) is strictly prohibited. This preserves the individual quality profile of Wachau white wines, which are divided by Vinea Wachau into three "weight classes": Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd, names that Vinea Wachau has trademarked.

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Kollmitz 2024,
a quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 12.5%: The smoothness and harmony of this Grüner Veltliner are evident even in the aroma. Delicate earthy notes of undergrowth, smoke, and fresh grain combine with fruity traces of banana and peanut. A perfect mosaic of aromas that really makes you want to try it. The tast is extremely diverse. Bright notes of lemon and orange peel, pineapple, and a strong minerality contrast beautifully with notes of pear and walnut. Delicate tartness combines with earthy and nutty components. Plenty of grip. Directness and spontaneity are the order of the day. No detours, straight to the point. Craftsmanship at its finest. Soil, climate, grape variety, and the work of the winemaker and cellar master create greatness. Individuality is key. Enjoy your glass.

The Kollmitz Ried (vineyard)
faces southeast and receives an average of 2,217 hours of sunshine per year. The conditions in the vineyard are cool and primarily influenced by climatic influences from the Atlantic-dominated western Wachau and the northern Waldviertel. Thanks to its sheltered location, the daytime warmth is stored for a long time. Two factors are particularly striking in the vineyard: first, the lack of stone walls – here, the terraces are usually reinforced by embankments; second, the location is characterized by massive loess deposits, which primarily dominate the lower part of the Kollmitz vineyard. While the distinct lower area of ​​the Kollmitz vineyard offers ideal conditions for Grüner Veltliner, the upper, paragneiss-based part of the vineyard is planted primarily with Riesling.

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Thanks to its sustainable mind and operation, the Domäne Wachau is considered a pioneer for the entire region. The winegrowers' cooperative model has already proven to be an ethical, social, and sustainable concept. The continuous increase in added value over the past 15 years has given many winegrowers in the region renewed prospects for the future.

The wines have also evolved: today they show a clear signature, are purist and precise, with transparency, grip, depth and drinking flow. In addition to the expressive vineyard wines, The Domäne Wachau focuses on unconventional and characterful natural wines with its backstage series. In amphora, concrete and stone, spirited wines are created away from the traditional.

The Wachau

World Heritage Site and enchanting feel-good landscape - this is the Wachau, the narrow Danube valley between Melk and Krems. On 1350 hectares, partly on steep terraces, there are mainly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. The wine categories "Steinfeder", "Federspiel" and "Smaragd" stand for the naturalness of Wachau wines. The Wachau is part of the Austrian DAC system. This means that the terroir idea and the detailed origin of the wines come fully into focus. In addition to the designations Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, which have been established for decades and refer to the style, the wines of the Wachau will in future also be defined by three geographical units: the area, the village and the vineyard.

Its Climate

The Wachau lies as a narrow valley between the heights of the Waldviertel and those of the Dunkelsteinerwald. The special climate has a great influence on the high quality of the wines, with two major climate zones influencing the local climate. Atlantic air penetrates from the west, which gives the climate of the Wachau its temperate-continental character, with cold winters and hot, dry summers. The water masses of the Danube have a temperature-balancing effect, especially in summer. Warm, Pannonian air masses flow into the Danube valley from the east, which have a mitigating effect on the climate, especially in the cold half of the year.

Its Soils

Despite the region's small geographical area, the soils of the Wachau exhibit a wide range of characteristics. The uniqueness of the Wachau landscape arose from the fact that the Danube had to carve its way through hard, crystalline primary rock. These oldest rocks in Austria, the "Bohemian Massif," are the remaining base of an ancient mountain range. The Gföhler gneiss and paragneiss of the Wachau were formerly plutonic rock or sediments that changed under great pressure and heat in the Earth's mantle and now form the basis of the Wachau soils.

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2023,
a quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 13.5%: Delicate and finely structured. Wonderful herbal aromas of sage and rosemary and the spiciness of anise, white pepper, and nutmeg provide pure freshness. Notes of apple, pear, and walnut provide the earthiness of this wine. All this is surrounded by a mantle of the finest minerality paired with a light saltiness and a subtle smoky note. What a ticket to the taste. Wow, what's going on here? From 0 to 100 in a fraction of a second. An unparalleled fullness of the mouth. The receptors are working at full speed. You can hardly keep up with the tasting. The presence of this Veltliner is phenomenal. Plenty of grip. Challenging. Stimulating. Always forward. Harmony in perfection. Aromas that range from fresh white pepper notes, nutmeg and radish to honey, nettle, anise, crisp pear and a light citrus note. The subtle residual sweetness and the well-integrated tannins provide the necessary glaze. The mineral-salty note represents a brilliant finish. A prime example of how wine is more than just a drink.

The Achleiten Ried (vineyard)
slopes steeply to the south and curves slightly to the southwest at the western end. The lowest terraces begin directly above the Danube at around 210 meters above sea level, while the highest plots are at around 360 meters. The Achleiten vineyard is located in the center of the Wachau and is influenced by a cool but balanced climate. The average vine age is around 40 years. The Achleiten vineyard is perhaps the most distinctive site in the Wachau: the character of the site is more evident here than that of the grape variety.

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kellerberg 2023
A quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 13.5%: A deep, rich aroma testifies to the beginnings of ripeness. Delicate, well-integrated tannins and a light hint of vanilla combine wonderfully with nutty elements and delicate undergrowth aromas. The harmony and balance of this wine are evident even in the aroma. Autumn, coming home, feeling good. The taste is of the finest quality. The terroir concept is a top priority here. Focused on the center, the wine envelops itself. Peppery spiciness, pear, lemon and orange peel, kumquat, and plenty of nuts provide fullness and power. Then follow subtle tones of mineral origin paired with a light saltiness and a rounded smoky note. Coriander and anise add small glimmers of hope. Blessed is he who gets to open this wine wonder bag. An experience.

The Kellerberg Ried (vineyard)
The Kellerberg is more than just the Domäne Wachau's local mountain. Its steeply sloping vineyards are exemplary of the entire Wachau region, and its Rieslings and Veltliners are synonymous with the country's best white wines. The Kellerberg may be steep, but relatively low. At its foot, the vines begin at just over 200 meters and end at around 340 meters.

Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2023,
a quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 13.5%: A triad of fruit, minerality, and earthiness. What a fragrance! The first impression is dominated by walnut and pistachio. Then citrus, grapefruit, and apple aromas creep in. But exotic fruits like lemongrass and a light scent of wild rose also have their place. A wonderful mineral and salty note pervades everything. A great start. It's astonishing how the freshness, vibrancy, fruit, sweetness, and acidity then come together in the taste. The wine sparkles with energy. As if from a magic bag, he conjures up a variety of aromas. The white pepper and muscat notes open the door. Followed by ginger and curry. Nutty and earthy notes follow. This provides the necessary grounding. But the wine can also take flight. The fruity aromas of apple, pear, peach, and pineapple are airy and light. Like little touches, they provide variety. The subtle residual sweetness allows these aromas to reach their peak. Ultimately, the mineral-salty note demonstrates how important the soil is in shaping the wine's flavor. A Riesling that wonderfully embodies terroir and the skill of the winemaker and cellar master.

Riesling Smaragd Ried Singerriedel 2023
Quality wine from Austria, dry, Wachau DAC, 13.5%: This wine's playfulness is evident even in its aroma. Let's give it a little air. Then it opens up like a flower's calyx in the early morning, still with dewdrops. Clarity, freshness, and minerality are at the forefront. A delicate spicy note of sage is noticeable. Then, almost shyly, aromas of pine needles, fresh nuts, almonds, and undergrowth venture out of their hiding place. Only then does the fruit fraction make its presence felt. Crisp peach, mirabelle plum, and lime zest, just from the aroma, hint at what awaits you in the taste. Density, richness, and body meet lightness. There's someone standing in the room, filling everything. He possesses an irresistible charisma. He is present without seeming arrogant, he captivates you without being intrusive. He's a storyteller, a fabulist, and you can—no, must—listen to him. Magic and excitement. A wine with a high fun factor. Everything is in beautiful balance. It's hard to believe the harmonious combination of tones. Nuances of celery blend harmoniously with rhubarb and quince. Peach and sage compete with white pepper and black radish. A high level of drinking pleasure. The cool gaze of passion.

The Ried Singerriedel

is not only one of the most impressive and well-known vineyards in the Wachau, it also produces some of the best Rieslings in the country. Geologically, the Singerriedel is primarily characterized by paragneiss, over which a thin layer of the finest weathered soils with silicate-rich cambisol has formed. Viticulture in the Ried Singerriedel has been documented since the 15th century. The name derives from the former ownership of the site. The vineyard has been recultivated primarily in the last three decades, during which its stone walls were repaired and the usually extremely narrow plots were replanted, often very densely.

Summary

The biggest lesson of the last twenty years, however, is that nothing can be rushed into action, say Frischengruber and Horvath. It takes time and perspective to work within the structure. The Wachau is a microcosm. It requires a deep understanding. Everything has to come at the right time. It makes no sense to embark on projects simply because you want them to be that way. The Wachau cooperative belongs to the 200 winegrowers. They have to want change. And they do; because they are aware of their responsibility to the region and to future generations.

Text: Horst Kröber; Photos: Domäne Wachau, unless otherwise stated